Polishing marble is necessary when the stone becomes scratched or etched to the point it becomes dull. The other reason marble requires polishing is that the customer has a stone that comes to him as a honed finish and he desires it to be polished. These are the only two reasons I can think of a stone should be polished. Refinishing to eliminate wear or changing the tiles from a hone to a polish.
Stone is available in two finishes: hone or polish. Polish is easy for most people to visualize - it is a shiny, glossy finish, and when viewed across a light source there will be a reflection. This is my definition of polish, I am sure there are others.
Hone finish is a bit harder for a customer to visualize. Honing is accomplished in two ways: with diamond or powder abrasives (there is another way, but lets just stick with the abrasives) These abrasives are available in different grits - from 30 to 3000. The hone finish will depend on the grit level of the process ends with. You cannot go to too high a grit level (usually over 220) or the stone will take on a polish look.
Which gets us back to the subject of polishing marble. Honing is a story for another day.
Polish finish is accomplished when the stone is honed from the point it needs to be refinished (enough heavy grit to remove scratches) to the point where it
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Sunday, March 21, 2010
Tile cleaning done right
Cleaning tile is a tough chore for the do it yourselfer. Porcelain and ceramic tiles are the subject of this article. If you have tried to clean dirty grout (most of the time we are paid to clean the grout, and the tiles are cleaned as a by product of this effort) it is a time consuming and all but impossible job, if you don’t have the following advantages:
Cleaning grout requires the following steps:
#1- Application of an acid cleaner and agitation with a brush designed to penetrate into the grout joint. This application is allowed to dwell on the tile surface, followed by extraction with a high heat (250 degrees or better) The reason we use acid is to remove mineral deposits and old alkaline cleaners that have been mopped on over time. Some cleaners maintain this step is not important.
#2- Application of an alkaline cleaner and agitation with a brush designed to penetrate the grout joint. This solution is allowed to dwell and is then extracted with the same high heat. This alkaline is applied to remove oxidized oils that are the basis of most food stains.
These steps are essential and cannot be skipped if you want an excellent job.
Following this procedure, we recommend application of a water-based sealer. Solvent-based sealers are not recommended for grout on ceramic and porcelain tile. They are too sticky and hard to remove from the tile. The sealer is just for the grout. The tiles need to be dry completely before the sealer is applied (imagine trying to apply a water proofer to a wet material) to the tile.
To learn more about tile cleaning visit us online at: http://www.fabricmasters.com/tilecleaning.html.
Cleaning grout requires the following steps:
#1- Application of an acid cleaner and agitation with a brush designed to penetrate into the grout joint. This application is allowed to dwell on the tile surface, followed by extraction with a high heat (250 degrees or better) The reason we use acid is to remove mineral deposits and old alkaline cleaners that have been mopped on over time. Some cleaners maintain this step is not important.
#2- Application of an alkaline cleaner and agitation with a brush designed to penetrate the grout joint. This solution is allowed to dwell and is then extracted with the same high heat. This alkaline is applied to remove oxidized oils that are the basis of most food stains.
These steps are essential and cannot be skipped if you want an excellent job.
Following this procedure, we recommend application of a water-based sealer. Solvent-based sealers are not recommended for grout on ceramic and porcelain tile. They are too sticky and hard to remove from the tile. The sealer is just for the grout. The tiles need to be dry completely before the sealer is applied (imagine trying to apply a water proofer to a wet material) to the tile.
To learn more about tile cleaning visit us online at: http://www.fabricmasters.com/tilecleaning.html.
Odor Removal
| Odor Removal |
We are your local expert in odor removal. Many companies sell bogus odor "masks" that are metered through their cleaning solution or sprayed on after the carpet has been cleaned. If the odor is in the carpet face, and it is cleaned using the procedures outlined on the carpet cleaning section of this website, the odor can be removed with cleaning. If the odor is in the backing, cushion and sub floor you have quite a different problem. We can restore to the sub floor if necessary including concrete sealing and plywood under layment replacement. If you have problems with pet odors Fabric Masters System uses a special UV light source to detect the exact sources, and then applies the right solutions to remove them.  These photos of a pet stained carpet were taken using the UV light. The light spots are the pet urine that have become visible. The line going through the picture is the frame of the UV light. Smoke odor removal from upholstery, draperies, carpeting and hard surfaces requires a special combination of detergents and solvents. We have processed hundreds of smoke damaged structures both from fire and nicotine. Fabric Masters Systems is happy to provide you with a free estimate and strategy to eliminate these and other difficult odor sources. To learn more about odor removal please visit us online at www.fabricmasters.com |
berber carpet cleaning
| Olefin Berber Cleaning | ||||||||||||
Olefin Berber carpeting accounts for at least 70% of the family/great rooms in our area. Olefin carpeting has characteristics that make cleaning difficult if certain steps are not followed. These carpets are easily cleaned with minimal stain/traffic area reappearance when using a Cimex machine prior to the final steam cleaning step. During this step we use a stain resistant shampoo that helps keep stains from reappearing. We also use a special chemical in the steam cleaning solution that keeps stains from coming back. The shampoo phase is as integral for a total restoration of your carpet, and with the Cimex we can complete this step more thoroughly than any other cleaner.
You can see the cleaned area as the Berber Machine makes it pass. We still use the other two components in our cleaning process: pre vacuuming with the pile lifter and hot water extraction at 220 degrees. To learn more about our cleaning process please visit us at www.fabricmasters.com |
Tile Cleaning
Our company Fabric & Tile Masters cleans thousands of square feet of tile and grout monthly. The process we use includes use of a high pressure, heated water along with alkaline and acid detergents. We also use mechanical agitation to clean the grout joint and tile thoroughly.
So for the do it yourselfer, the question becomes, how can we come as close as possible to duplication of professional result.
When cleaning grout (90% of the time when we are asked to clean tile and grout, it is the grout that needs cleaning) if you do not have a professional set up it will be necessary to compensate for the components you don't have, using what you do have.
For example since you don't have high pressure or heated solution, you must make up for that by using a strong chemical (alkaline or acid) and letting it dwell on the tile longer. You also must provide as much agitation as possible to the grout using a tool made especially to fit into a grout joint. You can also give yourself an advantage if someone in your area rents out specialty equipment that is designed to clean tile and grout. You would need to go to a janitor supply or a carpet cleaning distribution house, not a grocery or hardware store, because with those machines you would get virtually the same result you can get in this guideline.
One key assessment you need to make yourself is to determine if you have soling that is alkaline soluble or acid soluble. Alkaline soluble soiling are dried oxidized acids like food and grease from cooking. Acid soluble soils are dried alkalies like soap films and hard water deposits. YOU WILL GREATLY INCREASE YOUR CHANCES IF YOU GO TO THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE PH SCALE FROM YOUR SOILING.
So you want to clean your own grout. The following is the absolute best approach I can offer you.
- Assemble the necessary tools. (BTW we sell some of these items on our website, just click on the logo) 1- a grout brush that is made to go down into the grout while you are standing up. 2-a hand held pump up sprayer (it does not need to be chemical resistant) 3- a mop of some kind to remove the slurry you will create 4- the proper alkaline or acid grout cleaner.
- Mask areas you might be concerned with that could be harmed by chemicals. Stainless steel appliances need to be masked with plastic and taped. Carpet needs to be protected.
- Sweep or vacuum area to be cleaned.
- Mix cleaning solution according to manufacturers directions. If you want to truly do your best you will use both an acid and an alkaline. If you have heavy grease use the alkaline first, if not use the acid first.
- Apply solution to the grout joint and scrub with the grout brush. Use plenty of solution and let it dwell for at least 10 minutes, but do not let the solution dry. add more if it is drying too fast, but keep it wet for 10 minutes at least. (your biggest advantage - beside using our supplies - is to let the chemical dwell. Dwell time is your friend.
- After 10 minutes mop up slurry with clean water. We suggest using microfiber mops (yes we do sell them) Repeat process if you are using alkaline as well as acid cleaners.
- When your grout dries if it is really clean, you may wish to add a sealer. We recommend a water based sealer as they are easier to work with when applying to a grout joint. Take care not to get sealer on the tile as it can form a sticky residue that will attract soil to the tile. If it is not really clean we don't recommend you seal it because you will be essentially sealing the soil you couldn't get off under the sealer, and if you are able to get it cleaned professionally in the future it will hamper that persons effort.
Learn more about our cleaning chemicals here.
Carpet cleaning bait and switch
Any whole house of carpet cleaned $49.95. How does it work. Why would you call them.
This is an article about bait and switch. Before I get into the details of bait and switch, let me make a rarely made point. Consumers are responsible for bait and switch working. If consumers simply thought about these advertising scams, they would never ask these people to come into their homes. So without willing consumers greedily thinking they could get something for next to nothing – these plans would vanish for the “shopper” magazines they find so popular.
Having said that, here is how carpet cleaning bait and switch works.
You see the ad for $49.99 for any whole house. You call and the appointment is scheduled.
The person who will show up to do the job is hired by the cleaning company using a want ad that requires they have their “own transportation” This person will be expected to carry the gear to you house and clean your carpet with the gear provided. They will often have to buy their own chemicals. This person works on straight commission.
Typically, the financial deal between the man and the company (or house) is that the amount on the original job ticket (the $49.99) is all house money. The mans income is derived as a percentage of additional sales he makes in your home.
Here is where it gets juicy. The “technician” hauls in a dime store grade portable cleaning machine that resembles what you might rent at a grocery store. He will clean a part of the carpet with this machine and shake his head and inform you, that your carpet is so dirty, it needs to be prescrubbed. Do you feel the switch coming? He will then bring in a floor scrubber and go over a small section and remarkably, it is cleaner. You are then told this additional service is $.30 a square foot extra. If you say to go ahead, he adds this to the ticket, starts the job and sizes you up for what he is going to sell you next. Fabric protector, deodorizer, even the rinse used in the extraction machine can be leveraged to increase the commission ticket. He needs to take the ticket from $49.99 to $300-$700. They do that every day. It is how it works for them.
Once in Palm Beach county Florida, there were a couple of guys that sold so much to an elderly woman, they eventually poured a massive amount of water on the floor and charged her for a water damage. Her $49.99 special became a $4999 water damage. The lady’s niece was a police office that had set the whole thing up, and they were hauled to jail. But you get the point.
And by the way, the worst thing you can do is stick to your guns and demand the “special” This will get often net you a carpet that is wetter than you can imagine.
Check the BBB listings, ask your friends for references, or call the people that sold you the carpet to begin with and ask them who to use. But don’t expect to pay $49.99 to get your whole house cleaned.
To learn more about cleaning carpet, please visit us at http://www.fabricmasters.com/carpetcleaning.html.
This is an article about bait and switch. Before I get into the details of bait and switch, let me make a rarely made point. Consumers are responsible for bait and switch working. If consumers simply thought about these advertising scams, they would never ask these people to come into their homes. So without willing consumers greedily thinking they could get something for next to nothing – these plans would vanish for the “shopper” magazines they find so popular.
Having said that, here is how carpet cleaning bait and switch works.
You see the ad for $49.99 for any whole house. You call and the appointment is scheduled.
The person who will show up to do the job is hired by the cleaning company using a want ad that requires they have their “own transportation” This person will be expected to carry the gear to you house and clean your carpet with the gear provided. They will often have to buy their own chemicals. This person works on straight commission.
Typically, the financial deal between the man and the company (or house) is that the amount on the original job ticket (the $49.99) is all house money. The mans income is derived as a percentage of additional sales he makes in your home.
Here is where it gets juicy. The “technician” hauls in a dime store grade portable cleaning machine that resembles what you might rent at a grocery store. He will clean a part of the carpet with this machine and shake his head and inform you, that your carpet is so dirty, it needs to be prescrubbed. Do you feel the switch coming? He will then bring in a floor scrubber and go over a small section and remarkably, it is cleaner. You are then told this additional service is $.30 a square foot extra. If you say to go ahead, he adds this to the ticket, starts the job and sizes you up for what he is going to sell you next. Fabric protector, deodorizer, even the rinse used in the extraction machine can be leveraged to increase the commission ticket. He needs to take the ticket from $49.99 to $300-$700. They do that every day. It is how it works for them.
Once in Palm Beach county Florida, there were a couple of guys that sold so much to an elderly woman, they eventually poured a massive amount of water on the floor and charged her for a water damage. Her $49.99 special became a $4999 water damage. The lady’s niece was a police office that had set the whole thing up, and they were hauled to jail. But you get the point.
And by the way, the worst thing you can do is stick to your guns and demand the “special” This will get often net you a carpet that is wetter than you can imagine.
Check the BBB listings, ask your friends for references, or call the people that sold you the carpet to begin with and ask them who to use. But don’t expect to pay $49.99 to get your whole house cleaned.
To learn more about cleaning carpet, please visit us at http://www.fabricmasters.com/carpetcleaning.html.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Jacksonville Water Damage
Water damage is caused by several means both internal (a pipe break) and external (rising water during a floor. The most important goals are twofold: get the structure dry, and get it done as quickly as possible.
Water damages are classed by the source of the water at hand. A fresh water pipe break for example is not handled the same way as a sewerage backup. Each requires a solution based on the type of water.
The reason the timing of getting to the restoration is so important is that the longer a building material is wet (drywall for instance) the more likely those componets will have to be replaced.
Mold is on everyone’s mind these days, and the longer water remains on building materials, the more likely mold is to develop.
There are specific methods for drying a structure, and contents.
These methods include:
#1 – Extracting as much water as possible. This is as important in drying as any other. The ability of a well extracted floor will hasten the drying proces.
#2 – Using psychometric tool, like hygrometers to measure the moisture content of the different building materials (flooring, drywall, wallboard) and to measure the daily progress the drying process is making.
#3- The use of air movers. Air moving across a materials surface will cause that material to dry.
#5- The use of dehumidifiers. These units lower the humidity in a structure, and enable the wet materials to give up moisture.
There are several other specific methods for dealing with water damaged structures. For more information, please check us out online at http://www.fabricmasters.com/wd_restoration.html.
Water damages are classed by the source of the water at hand. A fresh water pipe break for example is not handled the same way as a sewerage backup. Each requires a solution based on the type of water.
The reason the timing of getting to the restoration is so important is that the longer a building material is wet (drywall for instance) the more likely those componets will have to be replaced.
Mold is on everyone’s mind these days, and the longer water remains on building materials, the more likely mold is to develop.
There are specific methods for drying a structure, and contents.
These methods include:
#1 – Extracting as much water as possible. This is as important in drying as any other. The ability of a well extracted floor will hasten the drying proces.
#2 – Using psychometric tool, like hygrometers to measure the moisture content of the different building materials (flooring, drywall, wallboard) and to measure the daily progress the drying process is making.
#3- The use of air movers. Air moving across a materials surface will cause that material to dry.
#5- The use of dehumidifiers. These units lower the humidity in a structure, and enable the wet materials to give up moisture.
There are several other specific methods for dealing with water damaged structures. For more information, please check us out online at http://www.fabricmasters.com/wd_restoration.html.
Grout Haze Removal
How many people have grout haze on their tiles? A bunch I can assure you. If you look across your floor and you see cloudy uneven residues that will not respond to household chemicals, you may have grout haze.
During he grouting process, tiles have to be wiped free of grout residue before the grout sets up on the tile. Or at least buffed off the tile at some point. We see several efforts to conceal grout reside, from designing tiles that have a faux grout residue built in, to application of sealers to hide the mess.
Solutions to grout haze removal vary depending on the type of tile.
Ceramic and porcelain tiles will "give up" grout haze by application of an acid cleaner. We apply the acid with a floor machine followed by removal with the high heat/pressure spinner. This is potentially a DIY project. You will need acid cleaner, possibly a floor machine and a means (wetvac) to remove the slurry. If you go this route, test a small area with n acid cleaner, and see if you are able to mop up the residue. The key is to suspend the grout haze with the acid and recover it before it is reattaches to the tile.
Stone floors owners are not so lucky. Since stone is porous, the grout haze will penetrate the tile slightly. Couple this with the fact you can not use acid on stone (unless you want an acid washed look) and this project quickly moves to the professional category. This situation is almost always complicated by an installer that knows he has a grout residue problem and attempts to hide it with a stone (and sadly in some cases an acrylic sealer - suited for vinyl flooring) sealer. To further complicate the situation, the installer will improperly apply the sealer, (as sealers dry, the first part applied will prevent the sealer left above from penetrating and an impossible residue will form) leaving a visible residue along with the grout haze. Instillation of stone flooring requires a skill set most tile installers do not have.
This is a frequent situation and will not be fully appreciated until the problem is corrected. Many times a customer will tell us the floor never looked as good even after a new install. We correct this situation by using abrasive diamonds pads or honing powders followed by proper application of sealer, if necessary. This is never a project suited for DIY.
Learn more about our stone floor refinishing process at: http://www.fabricmasters.com/stonefloors.html.
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During he grouting process, tiles have to be wiped free of grout residue before the grout sets up on the tile. Or at least buffed off the tile at some point. We see several efforts to conceal grout reside, from designing tiles that have a faux grout residue built in, to application of sealers to hide the mess.
Solutions to grout haze removal vary depending on the type of tile.
Ceramic and porcelain tiles will "give up" grout haze by application of an acid cleaner. We apply the acid with a floor machine followed by removal with the high heat/pressure spinner. This is potentially a DIY project. You will need acid cleaner, possibly a floor machine and a means (wetvac) to remove the slurry. If you go this route, test a small area with n acid cleaner, and see if you are able to mop up the residue. The key is to suspend the grout haze with the acid and recover it before it is reattaches to the tile.
Stone floors owners are not so lucky. Since stone is porous, the grout haze will penetrate the tile slightly. Couple this with the fact you can not use acid on stone (unless you want an acid washed look) and this project quickly moves to the professional category. This situation is almost always complicated by an installer that knows he has a grout residue problem and attempts to hide it with a stone (and sadly in some cases an acrylic sealer - suited for vinyl flooring) sealer. To further complicate the situation, the installer will improperly apply the sealer, (as sealers dry, the first part applied will prevent the sealer left above from penetrating and an impossible residue will form) leaving a visible residue along with the grout haze. Instillation of stone flooring requires a skill set most tile installers do not have.
This is a frequent situation and will not be fully appreciated until the problem is corrected. Many times a customer will tell us the floor never looked as good even after a new install. We correct this situation by using abrasive diamonds pads or honing powders followed by proper application of sealer, if necessary. This is never a project suited for DIY.
Learn more about our stone floor refinishing process at: http://www.fabricmasters.com/stonefloors.html.
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Carpet Cleaning Basics
Cleaning carpets requires using a combination of factors.
#1 complete dry vacuuming of the carpet to remove as much dry soil as possible. Like the oriental rug plant that uses a beater to remove sand, the carpet should be vacuumed with a beater bar vacuum that has two motors: one for the beater and one for the vacuum.
#2 chemical application to suspend water based soils. Most carpet soiling (dried cola) becomes an oxidized acid. This sticky mess is disengaged from the carpet fibers by adding an alkaline detergent.
#3 agitation of the applied chemical. The carpet must be agitated to apply the cleaning solution to all the fibers.
#4- dwell time for the chemicals. The chemical reaction is enhanced if the chemical is allowed to remain on the carpet long enough for the soil to become suspended.
#5 heat. Heated solutions work better.
An excellent cleaning company will of course prevacuum the carpet. They will also find a way to apply the proper solution with a tool that will gently agitate the fibers. They will then allow the chemical to stand long enough for the maximum cleaning to take place. They will then extract using super high heat.
There will be the occasional solvent soluble spot that will need to be cleaned with a solvent spotter. Remember that most carpet soil is water-soluble. Some stains (lipstick, ink, grease) will require the use of a solvent spotter. Solvent spotters are applied during the cleaning process.
To learn more about carpet cleaning, visit us online at http://www.fabricmasters.com/carpetcleaning.html.
#1 complete dry vacuuming of the carpet to remove as much dry soil as possible. Like the oriental rug plant that uses a beater to remove sand, the carpet should be vacuumed with a beater bar vacuum that has two motors: one for the beater and one for the vacuum.
#2 chemical application to suspend water based soils. Most carpet soiling (dried cola) becomes an oxidized acid. This sticky mess is disengaged from the carpet fibers by adding an alkaline detergent.
#3 agitation of the applied chemical. The carpet must be agitated to apply the cleaning solution to all the fibers.
#4- dwell time for the chemicals. The chemical reaction is enhanced if the chemical is allowed to remain on the carpet long enough for the soil to become suspended.
#5 heat. Heated solutions work better.
An excellent cleaning company will of course prevacuum the carpet. They will also find a way to apply the proper solution with a tool that will gently agitate the fibers. They will then allow the chemical to stand long enough for the maximum cleaning to take place. They will then extract using super high heat.
There will be the occasional solvent soluble spot that will need to be cleaned with a solvent spotter. Remember that most carpet soil is water-soluble. Some stains (lipstick, ink, grease) will require the use of a solvent spotter. Solvent spotters are applied during the cleaning process.
To learn more about carpet cleaning, visit us online at http://www.fabricmasters.com/carpetcleaning.html.
Jacksonville carpet cleaning
Jacksonville carpet cleaning require a cleaner to do an outstanding job, because in Jacksonville Florida, there are several options available that will produce a variety of results. The variety is based on the variations of the different methods of cleaning on the market. The carpet cleaning industry's central certification body, the IICRC recognizes several methods of carpet cleaning. These methods include the following:
* Shampoo: a method using a shower fed rotary brush scrubber, that dispenses a solution that cleans the carpet.
* Bonnet cleaning: a solution is (always a water based solution) applied with a pump sprayer and a clean pad or "bonnet" is rotated over the carpet transferring the soil into the pad. (this method is the basis of most dry cleaning advertised as "dry cleaning")
* Dry particle method. In this method, a corn husk (or other dry carrier) is ground up and a solvent is applied to them. This powder is then applied to the carpet and then vacuumed up taking along with it the carpet soil.
* Hot water extraction or steam cleaning. In this method, the carpet is cleaned using a portable or truck mounted cleaning machine that injects hot water to the carpet surface with a row of inline sprayers. Right next to these sprayers is a suction port that extracts the spent solution to a holding tank.
All of these methods (according to the IICRC) require the carpet to be vacuumed before it is cleaned. It is a fact that 80% of carpet soil is dry particles that must be vacuumed out before cleaning.
We clean carpet using a commercial pile lifting vacuum cleaner. Following this vacuuming we use a multi brush machine that spins both clockwise and counter clockwise to apply or cleaning solution. After allowing this solution to dwell we extract using the hot water extraction method listed above.
A description of this method is available online at: http://www.fabricmasters.com/carpetcleaning.html.
* Shampoo: a method using a shower fed rotary brush scrubber, that dispenses a solution that cleans the carpet.
* Bonnet cleaning: a solution is (always a water based solution) applied with a pump sprayer and a clean pad or "bonnet" is rotated over the carpet transferring the soil into the pad. (this method is the basis of most dry cleaning advertised as "dry cleaning")
* Dry particle method. In this method, a corn husk (or other dry carrier) is ground up and a solvent is applied to them. This powder is then applied to the carpet and then vacuumed up taking along with it the carpet soil.
* Hot water extraction or steam cleaning. In this method, the carpet is cleaned using a portable or truck mounted cleaning machine that injects hot water to the carpet surface with a row of inline sprayers. Right next to these sprayers is a suction port that extracts the spent solution to a holding tank.
All of these methods (according to the IICRC) require the carpet to be vacuumed before it is cleaned. It is a fact that 80% of carpet soil is dry particles that must be vacuumed out before cleaning.
We clean carpet using a commercial pile lifting vacuum cleaner. Following this vacuuming we use a multi brush machine that spins both clockwise and counter clockwise to apply or cleaning solution. After allowing this solution to dwell we extract using the hot water extraction method listed above.
A description of this method is available online at: http://www.fabricmasters.com/carpetcleaning.html.
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Fabric Masters Carpet Cleaning - Jacksonville, Florida
Carpet cleaning methods are as varied as the number of carpet cleaning equipment and chemical manufacturers on the market. Our company uses the following method. We hold that our method is the most complete process and has both technical and common sense advantages that give our customers one huge advantage: their carpet stays cleaner longer.
Our carpet cleaning includes the following steps:
1. Carpet vacuumed with a pile lifter. This vacuum has a 1/2 horse power motor just for the beater bar. Loose particles of soil, sand and hair are removed.
2. Preconditioner applied with the Cimex, a 640 rpm bi directional cleaner. Bi directional means the machine spins clockwise, and with the flip of a switch, spins counterclockwise. Walk areas will be cleaned using this machine are cleaned beyond your expectations. During this step we use Chemspec's Formula 161 Carpet Shampoo. This shampoo contains a fabric protector to keep carpets looking cleaner longer. We allow this solution to dwell in the carpet long enough to suspend soil completely. Steps 1and 2 alone are superior to most cleaning processes.
3. After the carpet is totally prepared we then begin the final phase of cleaning. Truck mounted steam cleaning. Our carpet-cleaning machine produces heat in excess of 270 degrees. In this solution we meter through a chemical to leave the carpet soft and prevent return of stubborn stains. This final step is the one cleaner start with.
Truthfully most consumers could care less how their carpets are cleaned, but they do want them looking great as long as possible. Our secret is that there is no secret. We vacuum to remove as much dry particles as possible before using any solutions. We apply our cleaning solution with the only machine we know of that turns the fibers both ways. We then steam clean the carpet with a cleaning solution metered along with the hot water.
Most cleaners start with the last step mentioned above, the steam cleaning. This is what we refer to as the finishing step. It is why our carpets look better and stay cleaner longer.
Our carpet cleaning includes the following steps:
1. Carpet vacuumed with a pile lifter. This vacuum has a 1/2 horse power motor just for the beater bar. Loose particles of soil, sand and hair are removed.
2. Preconditioner applied with the Cimex, a 640 rpm bi directional cleaner. Bi directional means the machine spins clockwise, and with the flip of a switch, spins counterclockwise. Walk areas will be cleaned using this machine are cleaned beyond your expectations. During this step we use Chemspec's Formula 161 Carpet Shampoo. This shampoo contains a fabric protector to keep carpets looking cleaner longer. We allow this solution to dwell in the carpet long enough to suspend soil completely. Steps 1and 2 alone are superior to most cleaning processes.
3. After the carpet is totally prepared we then begin the final phase of cleaning. Truck mounted steam cleaning. Our carpet-cleaning machine produces heat in excess of 270 degrees. In this solution we meter through a chemical to leave the carpet soft and prevent return of stubborn stains. This final step is the one cleaner start with.
Truthfully most consumers could care less how their carpets are cleaned, but they do want them looking great as long as possible. Our secret is that there is no secret. We vacuum to remove as much dry particles as possible before using any solutions. We apply our cleaning solution with the only machine we know of that turns the fibers both ways. We then steam clean the carpet with a cleaning solution metered along with the hot water.
Most cleaners start with the last step mentioned above, the steam cleaning. This is what we refer to as the finishing step. It is why our carpets look better and stay cleaner longer.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Travertine Patch - Jacksonville, Florida
The travertine Patch is a mortar based fill that can be applied to holes in tiles where it becomes loose or missing over time. This product and procedure is targeted to the do-it-yourselfer that own travertine and are missing fill that needs replacement.
When we refinish travertine I use abrasive disks or honing powder to remove scratches and bring the tiles/counters to the proper finish the customer desires. During this process we apply the same travertine patch we mention in this article.
As travertine is formed along creek beds and springs, holes form in the stone. This is true for travertine and saturnia, the cross cut travertine. During the manufacturing process, the holes on tiles or slabs are filled with a resin or mortar. Sometimes they are left unfilled, or are filled during the installation. Some travertine have fewer holes, other have large areas of holes.
Over time, especially in kitchen and other high traffic areas, the fill becomes loose and the unsightly holes appear. These holes need to be filled for several reasons. Trip hazards, unsightly appearance and a new way for water to find its way to the back of the tile, are all reasons to refill the tile with a product that will patch the tile.
The process of filling the holes is rather easy, and within the capability of the end user. First we start with a product that is the correct color and consistency that is easy to mix. You also need a product that will set up and be easy for the do it your selfer to apply.
This product should be able to withstand normal foot traffic and daily maintenance procedures. It should also not be noticeable, and should blend with the travertine. To learn more about travertine patching visit us online at http://www.fabricmasters.com/TravPatchKit.html.
Harry Edenfield owns Restoration by Fabric & Tile Masters in Jacksonville Florida. Please visit us at fabricmasters.com for more information. Harry also authors a blog http://fabricandtilemasters.com where he gives information on a variety of topics related to stone counter tops, carpet, upholstery, porcelain and ceramic tiles, water damage restoration and mold removal. Harry is also a member of the IICRC, the Marble Institute of America, and is an Accredited Member of the Better Business Bureau of Northeast Florida.
When we refinish travertine I use abrasive disks or honing powder to remove scratches and bring the tiles/counters to the proper finish the customer desires. During this process we apply the same travertine patch we mention in this article.
As travertine is formed along creek beds and springs, holes form in the stone. This is true for travertine and saturnia, the cross cut travertine. During the manufacturing process, the holes on tiles or slabs are filled with a resin or mortar. Sometimes they are left unfilled, or are filled during the installation. Some travertine have fewer holes, other have large areas of holes.
Over time, especially in kitchen and other high traffic areas, the fill becomes loose and the unsightly holes appear. These holes need to be filled for several reasons. Trip hazards, unsightly appearance and a new way for water to find its way to the back of the tile, are all reasons to refill the tile with a product that will patch the tile.
The process of filling the holes is rather easy, and within the capability of the end user. First we start with a product that is the correct color and consistency that is easy to mix. You also need a product that will set up and be easy for the do it your selfer to apply.
This product should be able to withstand normal foot traffic and daily maintenance procedures. It should also not be noticeable, and should blend with the travertine. To learn more about travertine patching visit us online at http://www.fabricmasters.com/TravPatchKit.html.
Harry Edenfield owns Restoration by Fabric & Tile Masters in Jacksonville Florida. Please visit us at fabricmasters.com for more information. Harry also authors a blog http://fabricandtilemasters.com where he gives information on a variety of topics related to stone counter tops, carpet, upholstery, porcelain and ceramic tiles, water damage restoration and mold removal. Harry is also a member of the IICRC, the Marble Institute of America, and is an Accredited Member of the Better Business Bureau of Northeast Florida.
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Restoring Water Damaged Tile & Stone - Jacksonville, Florida
Regarding water damaged tile:
From the CTaSC website:
"Floor covering categories market share in dollars are Carpet & Areas Rugs 57.9%, Ceramic Floor & Wall Tile 11.3%, Stone 5.0%, Hardwood 9.7%, Vinyl Sheet, Tile & Linoleum 10.1%, Laminates 5.2%, and Rubber 0.8%". Further, "the installed '08 volume of ceramic tile was 2 billion square feet. Stone would represent a smaller figure due to higher product cost."
Relating this to water damage restoration is really quite simple then. Find a way to save the tiles and you find a way to save money. Customers are also able to avoid substantial inconvenience of having tiles broken out and replaced.
Over the next several months we will lay out for you a real life flooded tile. During this restoration we will show how the facts stated above will have an impact on how we accomplish this.
- Tile is grouted (and grout exists) for one reason only. To keep water from reaching the back of the tile. Mortars and thinsets that adhere the tile to whatever substrate is a hand have to be protected from water intrusion.
- The easiest way for water to penetrate is on the edge.
- Grout color comes from pigments added during the manufacturing process. These color can be easily washed out during a flood. They are often washed out by improper mixing during the instillation process.
- Ceramic & porcelain tiles are not porous. Stone tiles are. Absorbency in stone varies.
- Ceramic & porcelain are typically grouted with sanded grout. Stone tile is typically grouted with nonsanded grout. This usually depends on installer/customer preferences regarding grout joint width. Grout joint thickness is critical in restoration.
- As is true in all water damage restoration projects, success is proportional to the timing of the initial response.
From the CTaSC website:
"Floor covering categories market share in dollars are Carpet & Areas Rugs 57.9%, Ceramic Floor & Wall Tile 11.3%, Stone 5.0%, Hardwood 9.7%, Vinyl Sheet, Tile & Linoleum 10.1%, Laminates 5.2%, and Rubber 0.8%". Further, "the installed '08 volume of ceramic tile was 2 billion square feet. Stone would represent a smaller figure due to higher product cost."
Relating this to water damage restoration is really quite simple then. Find a way to save the tiles and you find a way to save money. Customers are also able to avoid substantial inconvenience of having tiles broken out and replaced.
Over the next several months we will lay out for you a real life flooded tile. During this restoration we will show how the facts stated above will have an impact on how we accomplish this.
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Regrouting Tile - Jacksonville, Florida
Tile on walls and floors sometimes lose grout. We see installations that are many years old that never have lost any grout - and ones done last year that need attention. Installations or construction issues combined with settling are the cause. I recently saw a home built in the 1950's and the tile looked like they were new (they had in fact gone out of style and had come back in) and the install looked as perfect as it must have 60 years ago.
Tiles are attached to the wall or floor (a majority of the time) using thinset. Thinset is a process that uses a special adhesive to attach tile to a substrate such as water resistant wallboard or reinforced backerboard. When hardened, fresh grout is then forced into the spaces between the tiles with a rubber trowel and wiped clean. When the grout fails the danger is water, finding its way to the thinset. This begins the process of releasing the tile from the substrate. Water can gather behind the tile and develop mold. This mold will eventually show back through the grout, and a shower will start to smell swampy. We see these every day. This is the reason it is imperative missing grout (or caulk - we will get to that later) is be replaced. Regrouting by a tile installer who probably installed many of the time bombs these situations represent (always check their references with contractors they sub for as well as past customers and you will find a great one) usually begins with trying to remove the grout. Often we see a razor blade/utility knife used to score the grout so it will hold the new grout. This process is doomed to failure, as the grout will look good at first, but will be washed away. Much sooner than the homeowner wants it to.
The tool we use to deeply remove the grout before regrouting is our key advantage. We use a carbide bit, shown in the picture, to cut deeply into the grout. A gentle oscillation removes the grout (not disturbing the tiles), and we are able to replace it in a manner that will last much longer than any method. Dust is kept to a minimum. We started using this method, after seeing the ineffective way grout and caulk is removed in most cases, leading to customer unhappiness when the grout disappears in a matter of months. Ineffective removal techniques include (attempting to score the grout with a utility knife as well as just skimming over the old grout) are only efforts to make sure at least some of what is applied sticks for a little while.
Another important consideration in regrouting is how the edges are treated. Edge and corners must be caulked. Grout begins to shrink as the water evaporates and cracks form. Caulk contains latex or polyester instead of water, and this insures (if applied properly) corners and edges will not form cracks. Your installer may tell you he has used grout in the edges for years and never had a problem. We hear this all the time as we are estimating showers with cracked grout in the corners. I suspect the reason for not caulking are twofold: 1- the trouble one must go to to acquire the caulk color necessary to match the grout 2- the skill of caulking requires patience not everyone has.
The first place we usually start in the regrouting process is to match the existing grout color, since it is only the rare circumstance where we will have to remove all the grout. This can be a problem in some cases, and if necessary we can apply a colorseal to the grout to attain an even look.
We have extensive references lists that will be glad to discuss with you the comprehensive nature of our service.
Additional grout services can be found by clicking here.
Additional grout services can be found by clicking here.
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Stunned Crystals from Jacksonville, Florida
When heavy items like furniture or appliances are dragged or rolled across true geological marble, deep white lines in the stone form. These marks are referred to as stunned crystals. They cannot be removed.
Frequently these marks are caused by moving large pianos. The marks pictured were made by the largest pianio I have ever seen.
We advise customers to have enough lifters on hand to manhandle these items as rollers are not designed to be used on stone floors.
Click on picture to view stun.
Click here to learn more about our stone refinishing service.
Urethane Removal
Frequently we are asked to apply urethane or acrylic coatings to a natural stone. Anyone that knows anything about natural stone will tell you these products should never be applied to a stone surface. Stone is porous and proper sealers are resins dispersed in either solvents or water that penetrate the stone and are invisible on the stone surface. Topical finishes, like urethane or epoxy are best used on wood or vinyl, but have no role in natural stone. The reason is that these finishes penetrate the stone and cannot be removed by normal means, as you would vinyl with a simple water based stripper. Stone on the other hand is porous and will not respond to strippers, but will have to be ground out with expensive and labor intensive procedures.
We also find these types of topical finshes applied to tile and grout as a sealer or to just grout as a sealer. We would especially include the consumer product Mop N Glow, a finish suited for vinyl floor finishes. These products are neither appropriate for porcelain, ceramic or stone tiles. Due to the porosity of these materials, topical finishes penetrate deeply and are sometimes impossible to remove - short of grinding or stripping with heavy paint strippers.
Needless to say these are projects that are labor intensive as well as inconvenient to the owners. Heavy paint strippers and solvents are necessary to break down these sealers. They require careful handling due to chemical odors and difficulty of slurry recovery.
Remaining slurry have to be removed with great effort. These processes are time consuming and expensive. Stone floors on occasion have to be ground if acrylic penetrates deep into the product. For these reasons we strongly recommend against application of any acrylic floor finish (intended for use on vinyl flooring) to grouted product.
If you find yourself confronted with a topical sealer applied to your stone, you can try a simple test to remove the sealer. Many floor strippers are based on a glycol ether solvent. Find one of these and apply it to the stone in a small area and see if it loosens the topical sealer. If so you will need a wet vac, or some other manner to remove the accumulated slurry for disposal.
Urethane removal from a limestone floor.
We also find these types of topical finshes applied to tile and grout as a sealer or to just grout as a sealer. We would especially include the consumer product Mop N Glow, a finish suited for vinyl floor finishes. These products are neither appropriate for porcelain, ceramic or stone tiles. Due to the porosity of these materials, topical finishes penetrate deeply and are sometimes impossible to remove - short of grinding or stripping with heavy paint strippers.
Needless to say these are projects that are labor intensive as well as inconvenient to the owners. Heavy paint strippers and solvents are necessary to break down these sealers. They require careful handling due to chemical odors and difficulty of slurry recovery.
Remaining slurry have to be removed with great effort. These processes are time consuming and expensive. Stone floors on occasion have to be ground if acrylic penetrates deep into the product. For these reasons we strongly recommend against application of any acrylic floor finish (intended for use on vinyl flooring) to grouted product.
If you find yourself confronted with a topical sealer applied to your stone, you can try a simple test to remove the sealer. Many floor strippers are based on a glycol ether solvent. Find one of these and apply it to the stone in a small area and see if it loosens the topical sealer. If so you will need a wet vac, or some other manner to remove the accumulated slurry for disposal.
This countertop was coated with a urethane coating. Removal required using a paint stripper.
Urethane removal from a limestone floor.
This is a limestone that was coated with a topical sealer. After removal the stone was honed and polished.
Friday, October 17, 2008
Top ten mistakes when choosing stone
1-Cheap travertine – I list this first because it is such an unforeseen nightmare. Travertine is graded on the amount of fill present. If there is a lot of fill, large unsightly holes will appear that will have to be refilled. If the "d" grade travertine ever needs to be ground or flattened, in many cases will simply disintegrate. When choosing travertine do yourself a favor and take a strong look at the faux travertine’s in porcelain. High grade travertine has a similar price point to any other high grade stone.
2-Combining marble with granite inlay. Or inlays of any type on a stone floor. They are tough to refinish, and since the granite is harder, diamond floor grinders sometimes don’t work the way they are supposed to. If the floor is to be polished the compounds used to polish each is different, refinishing can be more difficult.
3-Ceramic tile, porcelain, wood, glass or copper inlays with natural stone. See examples above.
4-Choosing the wrong finish in a stone floor. Many people choose a hone finish only want to have it polished. Some choose a polish finish and have no idea the upkeep necessary, and want it honed. If you are thinking of stone choose a finish you can live with.
5-Skimping on install budget. Stone flooring installers are an elite group. Check references with customers and check distributors. Be sure they do excellent work. Expect to pay more. The saddest thing in the world is someone who buys a cheap stone and combines it with a weak installer.
6-Improper sealer application. Have a firm, thought out, fully explained strategy for sealer application, or your installer might apply a sealer that will completely change the finish of the floor. And never ever allow a product to be applied with a steel wool pad referred to as a crystalizer.
7-Avoid black marble. Black granite is OK, but not black marble. If you do insist on a black marble take a sample tile to a restoration company that face polishes stone and have them confirm the stone is not doctored.
8-Using sanded grout. Have the installer use non-sanded grout. Sanded grout makes the floor virtually impossible to refinish, because dislodged sand can become embedded in the diamond disks and scratch the floor.
9-Using stone in a shower. In all my years in the business I have only seen one stone shower that looked great after a number of years. After every shower, the couple would squeegee and towel dry the entire shower. Soap residue and minerals from the water take their toll on the stone from day one.
10-Like 9 above – using marble on a kitchen counter where it can be subject to acid etching.
Learn more about stone maintenance here.
2-Combining marble with granite inlay. Or inlays of any type on a stone floor. They are tough to refinish, and since the granite is harder, diamond floor grinders sometimes don’t work the way they are supposed to. If the floor is to be polished the compounds used to polish each is different, refinishing can be more difficult.
3-Ceramic tile, porcelain, wood, glass or copper inlays with natural stone. See examples above.
4-Choosing the wrong finish in a stone floor. Many people choose a hone finish only want to have it polished. Some choose a polish finish and have no idea the upkeep necessary, and want it honed. If you are thinking of stone choose a finish you can live with.
5-Skimping on install budget. Stone flooring installers are an elite group. Check references with customers and check distributors. Be sure they do excellent work. Expect to pay more. The saddest thing in the world is someone who buys a cheap stone and combines it with a weak installer.
6-Improper sealer application. Have a firm, thought out, fully explained strategy for sealer application, or your installer might apply a sealer that will completely change the finish of the floor. And never ever allow a product to be applied with a steel wool pad referred to as a crystalizer.
7-Avoid black marble. Black granite is OK, but not black marble. If you do insist on a black marble take a sample tile to a restoration company that face polishes stone and have them confirm the stone is not doctored.
8-Using sanded grout. Have the installer use non-sanded grout. Sanded grout makes the floor virtually impossible to refinish, because dislodged sand can become embedded in the diamond disks and scratch the floor.
9-Using stone in a shower. In all my years in the business I have only seen one stone shower that looked great after a number of years. After every shower, the couple would squeegee and towel dry the entire shower. Soap residue and minerals from the water take their toll on the stone from day one.
10-Like 9 above – using marble on a kitchen counter where it can be subject to acid etching.
Learn more about stone maintenance here.
Monday, August 18, 2008
Grinding Stone Floors
These are the metal and resin bond diamonds used to grind or hone a natural stone floor.Installing a perfectly flat floor (one without lippage) is next to impossible for most installers. Even slightly uneven tile levels can effect floor restoration. If there is excess lippage, and the floor is polished, the high edges will become glossier than the middle of the tiles. If the customer wishes to have a hone finish stone floor the floor has to be ground nearly completely flat to eliminate variations in finish on individual tiles.
When a customer wishes to have a floor flattened, we have to go through a grit progression.
We start with a 50 or 100 metal bond diamond, and work our way up to a resin bond usually starting at 60 then 200, 400, 800 followed by a polish finish if that is desired. The floor we are showing was taken to a 220 grit. The customer wanted a hone finish.
Picture at left is stone after 50 grit metal bond honing pass. During this cut we are not trying to remove every bit of lippage. This will happen as we proceed through the diamond grit progression.Pictured diamonds are embedded in either metal or resin. The metal are far more aggressive, and the resin (in stages) remove the deep scratches they make during the initial cuts.
50 Grit metal bond cut. Notice the deep scratches from the diamonds. These are removed with subsequent finer cuts.
Also notice the low areas the diamonds are unable to touch. On tiles that dive, these are impossible to remove if they are too deep.
With the metal bond diamond disks (often refer ed to as delippage tools) we are removing the uneven edges by grinding them down. Notice the deep scratch patterns that will be removed with subsequent honing cuts.
50 grit scratches
After 100 grit metal bond cut, 50 grit scratches begin to disappear. 100 grit scratches are clearly visible, but not as deep as the 50's.
After metal bond honing cuts, we start resin bond. This photo is after a 60 grit resin bond honing cut.
After all our diamond honing cuts we use honing brushes to give the floor a beautiful honed finish.
Honed finish. Floor completely flattened.
I would like to dedicate this page to the great stone genius Maurizio Bertoli. Maurizio taught me a great deal about stone and if I hadn't know him I think I would never have fully understood stone refinishing.
Maurizio was tragically killed in an auto accident in '08. Shortly before his death a consumer from Jacksonville emailed him to find out who to use to refinish his floor. He referred me to do the work. The result of that call is the job pictured here.
Learn more about natural stone grinding here.
Learn more about natural stone grinding here.
Friday, May 23, 2008
Sealing Sanded Grout
The reason I titled this sealing sanded grout is to define the only type of grout we seal: sanded grout. Sanded grout is the rough textured grout (that contains sand) found in ceramic and porcelain tile installations. Non sanded or unsanded grout is used in natural stone floors or walls, and when it really gets dirty, it does not clean like sanded grout. Therefore, sealing nonsanded grout is pretty much a waste of time.
Unsanded or wall grade grout is used by stone installers because 1-they typically have a narrower grout joint, 2-they could scratch a tiles surface when grouting 3- sanded grout makes a restoration using a diamond grinder difficult. It is more like caulk than cement, and dirt has an easier time penerating.Lets say you have a newly installed tile floor. Or freshly cleaned. In many cases a fresh cleaned tile floor will be cleaner than when it was new because construction residues will be finally cleaned off. The question becomes: how am I going to keep the grout from getting dirty.We now have to get into the role of a sealer, and what your options are.
Rule #1 The sealer is for the grout only. Sealers we use for marble penetrate into the stone and have no surface residue. Ceramic tiles are much harder than stone, and with virtually no porosity, they will accept no sealer. If you do get sealer residue on a tile, it will invariably attract soil, and lay on top of the tiles. Rule #2 Only use water based sealer. The reason for this is found in the application process. Solvent based sealers are manufactured to be dispensed from a solvent resistant sprayer across a broad area. Grout sealer should only be applied to the grout joint. Dried sealer on the tile will attract soil and will be clearly visible. Applicators available through retail channels all have advantages as well as drawbacks, but none we know of are solvent resistant.Rule #3 Apply to dry grout. If done after cleaning the grout need to be dried with air movers. Sealers create and oil and water repellant layer, and this is difficult to do if water is present.Rule #4 How to apply the water based sealer. As has been mentioned, sealer residue on a ceramic tile will be visible and will attract soil. The sealer is made to penetrate a porous material, and ceramic tile is not porous. Many professional grout cleaners will simply spray the sealer on the floor and attempt to squeegee into the grout joint. As you can see in the pictures below, Fabric & Tile Masters uses a commercial tool to flood the grout joint, avoiding application to the tile. Some professionals spray sealer on the tile, followed by buffing the sealer off. At least these individuals are trying to remove the excess, and for that we applaud them. Grout sealers are designed to help the end user clean up stain and spills that are dealt with promptly. The sealer should give you a chance to clean up the spill. If it is a heavy staining material like motor oil or ink, and you don't get it up before it penetrates, it will likely become a permanent stain. In 90% of homes, you walk through your garage door onto the tile and begin to clean off your feet. This cleaning will be completed on your master bedroom carpet. No grout sealer will prevent this type of soil from getting the grout dirty. Mopping, grout scrubbing, -periodic professional cleaners, and reapplication of sealer are all necessary.If you are going to hire a professional company to clean your tile and grout we recommend you find one that cleans with both an acid and an alkaline. They should also be able to detail how they seal the grout without getting sealer on the tile.
Learn more about our sanded grout sealers here.
Unsanded or wall grade grout is used by stone installers because 1-they typically have a narrower grout joint, 2-they could scratch a tiles surface when grouting 3- sanded grout makes a restoration using a diamond grinder difficult. It is more like caulk than cement, and dirt has an easier time penerating.Lets say you have a newly installed tile floor. Or freshly cleaned. In many cases a fresh cleaned tile floor will be cleaner than when it was new because construction residues will be finally cleaned off. The question becomes: how am I going to keep the grout from getting dirty.We now have to get into the role of a sealer, and what your options are.
Rule #1 The sealer is for the grout only. Sealers we use for marble penetrate into the stone and have no surface residue. Ceramic tiles are much harder than stone, and with virtually no porosity, they will accept no sealer. If you do get sealer residue on a tile, it will invariably attract soil, and lay on top of the tiles. Rule #2 Only use water based sealer. The reason for this is found in the application process. Solvent based sealers are manufactured to be dispensed from a solvent resistant sprayer across a broad area. Grout sealer should only be applied to the grout joint. Dried sealer on the tile will attract soil and will be clearly visible. Applicators available through retail channels all have advantages as well as drawbacks, but none we know of are solvent resistant.Rule #3 Apply to dry grout. If done after cleaning the grout need to be dried with air movers. Sealers create and oil and water repellant layer, and this is difficult to do if water is present.Rule #4 How to apply the water based sealer. As has been mentioned, sealer residue on a ceramic tile will be visible and will attract soil. The sealer is made to penetrate a porous material, and ceramic tile is not porous. Many professional grout cleaners will simply spray the sealer on the floor and attempt to squeegee into the grout joint. As you can see in the pictures below, Fabric & Tile Masters uses a commercial tool to flood the grout joint, avoiding application to the tile. Some professionals spray sealer on the tile, followed by buffing the sealer off. At least these individuals are trying to remove the excess, and for that we applaud them. Grout sealers are designed to help the end user clean up stain and spills that are dealt with promptly. The sealer should give you a chance to clean up the spill. If it is a heavy staining material like motor oil or ink, and you don't get it up before it penetrates, it will likely become a permanent stain. In 90% of homes, you walk through your garage door onto the tile and begin to clean off your feet. This cleaning will be completed on your master bedroom carpet. No grout sealer will prevent this type of soil from getting the grout dirty. Mopping, grout scrubbing, -periodic professional cleaners, and reapplication of sealer are all necessary.If you are going to hire a professional company to clean your tile and grout we recommend you find one that cleans with both an acid and an alkaline. They should also be able to detail how they seal the grout without getting sealer on the tile.
Learn more about our sanded grout sealers here.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Sealing Stone Surfaces
This is an an explanation of how sealers work on natural stone counters and flooring.
Perhaps nowhere is there more bad information about maintaining a building material than there is about stone sealers. If you stand in a stone dealer showroom you will hear sales people say to each customer "yes all natural stone needs to be sealed" The question is does it really.
Perhaps nowhere is there more bad information about maintaining a building material than there is about stone sealers. If you stand in a stone dealer showroom you will hear sales people say to each customer "yes all natural stone needs to be sealed" The question is does it really.
Backing up a few steps I would like to mention briefly just what a sealer is. Stone sealers are at a basic level a polymers suspended in either water or a solvent. The invisible polymers fill holes in the face of the stone and increase the chance of removing a spill that could possibly permanently stain the stone. These sealers are then applied to the stone surface where ultimately they penetrate into the porous stone, filling microscopic (and some not so microscopic) holes. When applied correctly the desired outcome is a stone surface that has increased surface tension and decreased absorbency. The sealer then offers the stone some water and oil repellency.
The variables involved in application of a sealer:
The suitability of the sealer for the job. Let’s say you apply an acrylic floor sealer to a stone floor. The stone wont even resemble what you picked out in the first place and you are going to have to speak with a guy like me to restore it. A proper stone sealer under all circumstances will be invisible on the stone surface.
The suitability of the stone for the sealer. Many stones, regardless of the finish (honed or polished) will not take a sealer and it will sit right on top of the stone surface. An absolute black granite with a honed finish will not take a sealer, nor will a polished creama marfil.
The condition of the stone immediately before application of the sealer. Many times sealers are used to cover scratches and grout haze from an instillation. What can I say, it happens. Call me.
Some sealers work better than others. A solvent-based sealer will work better than a water based sealer. There are also enhancer sealers that can add to the depth of color of some stones. They can change the way a stone looks, but applied properly you will not see the sealer or residue on the stone surface.
Sometimes because of the intended use of the stone, you really need a sealer (honed finish in a kitchen with lots of kids and a dog) and sometimes (a polished finish marble with two retired people who remove their shoes at the door) you don’t.
So the variables are the applicator, the sealer, the stone and the traffic.
Go over these carefully with your stone pro to be sure you are getting what you need. If you are a doityourselfer, follow the guidelines listed in this blog for proper sealer application.
Remember too, no sealer will keep the floor from getting dirty. Look to the maintenance guidelines listed on this blog for guidelines. Sealer objective is to give you a little time to wipe up an oil or water based spill before it penetrates into stone.
To test if your stone needs a sealer, drop some water on it and if it darkens, it probably needs sealing. The only rule I know that applies to all sealers and all stone is to test in an inconspicuous area to see how it will look. When you are satisfied you will be happy with the way it looks go ahead and seal away.
sealer applied to granite. notice water beading due to increased surface tension.
stone enhancer applied to slate. BTW we used respirators during this application.
water beads on sealed granite
sealer beads up on right, and lays flat on unsealed left
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