Marble Polishing

Polishing marble is necessary when the stone becomes scratched or etched to the point it becomes dull. The other reason marble requires polishing is that the customer has a stone that comes to him as a honed finish and he desires it to be polished. These are the only two reasons I can think of a stone should be polished. Refinishing to eliminate wear or changing the tiles from a hone to a polish.

Stone is available in two finishes: hone or polish. Polish is easy for most people to visualize - it is a shiny, glossy finish, and when viewed across a light source there will be a reflection. This is my definition of polish, I am sure there are others.
Hone finish is a bit harder for a customer to visualize. Honing is accomplished in two ways: with diamond or powder abrasives (there is another way, but lets just stick with the abrasives) These abrasives are available in different grits - from 30 to 3000. The hone finish will depend on the grit level of the process ends with. You cannot go to too high a grit level (usually over 220) or the stone will take on a polish look.

Which gets us back to the subject of polishing marble. Honing is a story for another day.

LEARN MORE ABOUT MARBLE REFINISHING HERE

Carpet Cleaning Basics

Cleaning carpets requires using a combination of factors.


#1 complete dry vacuuming of the carpet to remove as much dry soil as possible. Like the oriental rug plant that uses a beater to remove sand, the carpet should be vacuumed with a beater bar vacuum that has two motors: one for the beater and one for the vacuum.


#2 chemical application to suspend water based soils. Most carpet soiling (dried cola) becomes an oxidized acid. This sticky mess is disengaged from the carpet fibers by adding an alkaline detergent.



#3 agitation of the applied chemical. The carpet must be agitated to apply the cleaning solution to all the fibers.


#4- dwell time for the chemicals. The chemical reaction is enhanced if the chemical is allowed to remain on the carpet long enough for the soil to become suspended.



#5 heat. Heated solutions work better.

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An excellent cleaning company will of course prevacuum the carpet. They will also find a way to apply the proper solution with a tool that will gently agitate the fibers. They will then allow the chemical to stand long enough for the maximum cleaning to take place. They will then extract using super high heat.

There will be the occasional solvent soluble spot that will need to be cleaned with a solvent spotter. Remember that most carpet soil is water-soluble. Some stains (lipstick, ink, grease) will require the use of a solvent spotter. Solvent spotters are applied during the cleaning process.

To learn more about carpet cleaning, visit us online at http://www.fabricmasters.com/carpetcleaning.html.

Jacksonville carpet cleaning

Jacksonville carpet cleaning require a cleaner to do an outstanding job, because in Jacksonville Florida, there are several options available that will produce a variety of results. The variety is based on the variations of the different methods of cleaning on the market. The carpet cleaning industry's central certification body, the IICRC recognizes several methods of carpet cleaning. These methods include the following:

    * Shampoo: a method using a shower fed rotary brush scrubber, that dispenses a solution that cleans the carpet.
    * Bonnet cleaning: a solution is (always a water based solution)  applied with a pump sprayer and a clean pad or "bonnet" is rotated over the carpet transferring the soil into the pad. (this method is the basis of most dry cleaning advertised as "dry cleaning")
    * Dry particle method. In this method, a corn husk (or other dry carrier) is ground up and a solvent is applied to them. This powder is then applied to the carpet and then vacuumed up taking along with it the carpet soil.
    * Hot water extraction or steam cleaning. In this method, the carpet is cleaned using a portable or truck mounted cleaning machine that injects hot water to the carpet surface with a row of inline sprayers. Right next to these sprayers is a suction port that extracts the spent solution to a holding tank.

All of these methods (according to the IICRC) require the carpet to be vacuumed before it is cleaned. It is a fact that 80% of carpet soil is dry particles that must be vacuumed out before cleaning.


We clean carpet using a commercial pile lifting vacuum cleaner. Following this vacuuming we use a multi brush machine that spins both clockwise and counter clockwise to apply or cleaning solution. After allowing this solution to dwell we extract using the hot water extraction method listed above.


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Travertine Patch - Jacksonville, Florida

The travertine Patch is a mortar based fill that can be applied to holes in tiles where it becomes loose or missing over time. This product and procedure is targeted to the do-it-yourselfer that own travertine and are missing fill that needs replacement.

When we refinish travertine I use abrasive disks or honing powder to remove scratches and bring the tiles/counters to the proper finish the customer desires. During this process we apply the same travertine patch we mention in this article.

LEARN MORE ABOUT STONE REFINISHING HERE.

As travertine is formed along creek beds and springs, holes form in the stone. This is true for travertine and saturnia, the cross cut travertine. During the manufacturing process, the holes on tiles or slabs are filled with a resin or mortar. Sometimes they are left unfilled, or are filled during the installation. Some travertine have fewer holes, other have large areas of holes.

Over time, especially in kitchen and other high traffic areas, the fill becomes loose and the unsightly holes appear. These holes need to be filled for several reasons. Trip hazards, unsightly appearance and a new way for water to find its way to the back of the tile, are all reasons to refill the tile with a product that will patch the tile.

The process of filling the holes is rather easy, and within the capability of the end user. First we start with a product that is the correct color and consistency that is easy to mix. You also need a product that will set up and be easy for the do it your selfer to apply.

This product should be able to withstand normal foot traffic and daily maintenance procedures. It should also not be noticeable, and should blend with the travertine. .

Harry Edenfield owns Restoration by Fabric & Tile Masters in Jacksonville Florida. Please visit us at fabricmasters.com for more information. Harry also authors a blog http://fabricandtilemasters.com where he gives information on a variety of topics related to stone counter tops, carpet, upholstery, porcelain and ceramic tiles, water damage restoration and mold removal. Harry is also a member of the IICRC, the Marble Institute of America, and is an Accredited Member of the Better Business Bureau of Northeast Florida.

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Restoring Water Damaged Tile & Stone - Jacksonville, Florida

Regarding water damaged tile:

• Tile is grouted (and grout exists) for one reason only. To keep water from reaching the back of the tile. Mortars and thinsets that adhere the tile to whatever substrate is a hand have to be protected from water intrusion.
  

• The easiest way for water to penetrate is on the edge.

• Grout color comes from pigments added during the manufacturing process. These color can be easily washed out during a flood. They are often washed out by improper mixing during the instillation process.
  

• Ceramic & porcelain tiles are not porous. Stone tiles are. Absorbency in stone varies.

• Ceramic & porcelain are typically grouted with sanded grout. Stone tile is typically grouted with nonsanded grout. This usually depends on installer/customer preferences regarding grout joint width. Grout joint thickness is critical in restoration.
  

• As is true in all water damage restoration projects, success is proportional to the timing of the initial response.

Why worry about restoring water damaged flooring anyway.
From the CTaSC website:
"Floor covering categories market share in dollars are Carpet & Areas Rugs 57.9%, Ceramic Floor & Wall Tile 11.3%, Stone 5.0%, Hardwood 9.7%, Vinyl Sheet, Tile & Linoleum 10.1%, Laminates 5.2%, and Rubber 0.8%". Further, "the installed '08 volume of ceramic tile was 2 billion square feet. Stone would represent a smaller figure due to higher product cost."

Relating this to water damage restoration is really quite simple then. Find a way to save the tiles and you find a way to save money. Customers are also able to avoid substantial inconvenience of having tiles broken out and replaced.


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Stunned Crystals from Jacksonville, Florida

When heavy items like furniture or appliances are dragged or rolled across true geological marble, deep white lines in the stone form. These marks are referred to as stunned crystals. They cannot be removed.
Frequently these marks are caused by moving large pianos. The marks pictured were made by the largest pianio I have ever seen.
We advise customers to have enough lifters on hand to manhandle these items as rollers are not designed to be used on stone floors.

Click on picture to view stun.

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Sealing Sanded Grout

The reason I titled this sealing sanded grout is to define the only type of grout we seal: sanded grout. Sanded grout is the rough textured grout (that contains sand) found in ceramic and porcelain tile installations. Non sanded or unsanded grout is used in natural stone floors or walls, and when it really gets dirty, it does not clean like sanded grout. Therefore, sealing nonsanded grout is pretty much a waste of time.


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Unsanded or wall grade grout is used by stone installers because 1-they typically have a narrower grout joint, 2-they could scratch a tiles surface when grouting 3- sanded grout makes a restoration using a diamond grinder difficult. It is more like caulk than cement, and dirt has an easier time penerating.Lets say you have a newly installed tile floor. Or freshly cleaned. In many cases a fresh cleaned tile floor will be cleaner than when it was new because construction residues will be finally cleaned off. The question becomes: how am I going to keep the grout from getting dirty.We now have to get into the role of a sealer, and what your options are.
Rule #1 The sealer is for the grout only. Sealers we use for marble penetrate into the stone and have no surface residue. Ceramic tiles are much harder than stone, and with virtually no porosity, they will accept no sealer. If you do get sealer residue on a tile, it will invariably attract soil, and lay on top of the tiles. Rule #2 Only use water based sealer. The reason for this is found in the application process. Solvent based sealers are manufactured to be dispensed from a solvent resistant sprayer across a broad area. Grout sealer should only be applied to the grout joint. Dried sealer on the tile will attract soil and will be clearly visible. Applicators available through retail channels all have advantages as well as drawbacks, but none we know of are solvent resistant.Rule #3 Apply to dry grout. If done after cleaning the grout need to be dried with air movers. Sealers create and oil and water repellant layer, and this is difficult to do if water is present.Rule #4 How to apply the water based sealer. As has been mentioned, sealer residue on a ceramic tile will be visible and will attract soil. The sealer is made to penetrate a porous material, and ceramic tile is not porous. Many professional grout cleaners will simply spray the sealer on the floor and attempt to squeegee into the grout joint. As you can see in the pictures below, Fabric & Tile Masters uses a commercial tool to flood the grout joint, avoiding application to the tile. Some professionals spray sealer on the tile, followed by buffing the sealer off. At least these individuals are trying to remove the excess, and for that we applaud them. Grout sealers are designed to help the end user clean up stain and spills that are dealt with promptly. The sealer should give you a chance to clean up the spill. If it is a heavy staining material like motor oil or ink, and you don't get it up before it penetrates, it will likely become a permanent stain. In 90% of homes, you walk through your garage door onto the tile and begin to clean off your feet. This cleaning will be completed on your master bedroom carpet. No grout sealer will prevent this type of soil from getting the grout dirty. Mopping, grout scrubbing, -periodic professional cleaners, and reapplication of sealer are all necessary.If you are going to hire a professional company to clean your tile and grout we recommend you find one that cleans with both an acid and an alkaline. They should also be able to detail how they seal the grout without getting sealer on the tile.

Sealing Stone Surfaces

This is an an explanation of how sealers work on natural stone counters and flooring.
Perhaps nowhere is there more bad information about maintaining a building material than there is about stone sealers. If you stand in a stone dealer showroom you will hear sales people say to each customer "yes all natural stone needs to be sealed" The question is does it really.

Backing up a few steps I would like to mention briefly just what a sealer is. Stone sealers are at a basic level a polymers suspended in either water or a solvent. The invisible polymers fill holes in the face of the stone and increase the chance of removing a spill that could possibly permanently stain the stone. These sealers are then applied to the stone surface where ultimately they penetrate into the porous stone, filling microscopic (and some not so microscopic) holes. When applied correctly the desired outcome is a stone surface that has increased surface tension and decreased absorbency. The sealer then offers the stone some water and oil repellency.

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The variables involved in application of a sealer:

The suitability of the sealer for the job. Let’s say you apply an acrylic floor sealer to a stone floor. The stone wont even resemble what you picked out in the first place and you are going to have to speak with a guy like me to restore it. A proper stone sealer under all circumstances will be invisible on the stone surface.


The suitability of the stone for the sealer. Many stones, regardless of the finish (honed or polished) will not take a sealer and it will sit right on top of the stone surface. An absolute black granite with a honed finish will not take a sealer, nor will a polished creama marfil.

The condition of the stone immediately before application of the sealer. Many times sealers are used to cover scratches and grout haze from an instillation. What can I say, it happens. Call me.


Some sealers work better than others. A solvent-based sealer will work better than a water based sealer. There are also enhancer sealers that can add to the depth of color of some stones. They can change the way a stone looks, but applied properly you will not see the sealer or residue on the stone surface.

Sometimes because of the intended use of the stone, you really need a sealer (honed finish in a kitchen with lots of kids and a dog) and sometimes (a polished finish marble with two retired people who remove their shoes at the door) you don’t.


So the variables are the applicator, the sealer, the stone and the traffic.
Go over these carefully with your stone pro to be sure you are getting what you need. If you are a doityourselfer, follow the guidelines listed in this blog for proper sealer application.



Remember too, no sealer will keep the floor from getting dirty. Look to the maintenance guidelines listed on this blog for guidelines. Sealer objective is to give you a little time to wipe up an oil or water based spill before it penetrates into stone.

To test if your stone needs a sealer, drop some water on it and if it darkens, it probably needs sealing. The only rule I know that applies to all sealers and all stone is to test in an inconspicuous area to see how it will look. When you are satisfied you will be happy with the way it looks go ahead and seal away.

sealer applied to granite. notice water beading due to increased surface tension.
stone enhancer applied to slate. BTW we used respirators during this application.
water beads on sealed granite

sealer beads up on right, and lays flat on unsealed left

Stone Acid Etchings

In my previous post I mentioned the necessity to avoid acid etching. Low ph solutions like cola, fruit juices and a multitude of household chemicals will cause acid etchings. We have to use a floor machine or an angle grinder to remove these etchings, a process that can be quite expensive. Shower walls for example are usually billed $500 per wall. The reason it is so expensive is that many times each square inch of every tile will need to be exposed to a grit progression (100,220,400,800) and then will be polished to achieve a like new finish.
These are a few pictures of etchings being repaired.
Breccia oniciata etched with a heavy acid. See streaks on the right. The tile on the left has been refinished.
The ceiling of this bathroom was sprayed with tilex cleaner. You can see the white etch marks on the tile.


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